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GOTS & the Soap Bag: The Purity Standard for Textiles

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is the world's strictest certification for organic textiles – and the only standard that checks ecological and social requirements together, bindingly, across the entire production chain. It defines what a textile product must achieve to count as truly “organic”: no synthetic finish, no banned chemicals, a fully documented supply chain, fairly paid workers. The QUOALA soap bag is GOTS-certified at the “Made with organic” level – with 70 % organic linen. In this article we explain exactly what that means, how certification works – and why GOTS is the decisive standard for textiles that touch your skin directly every day.

Key points at a glance:

  • GOTS is the world's strictest certification for organic textiles – it checks every stage of production, from cultivation to packaging.
  • Two levels: “Organic” (≥95 % organic fibres) and “Made with organic” (≥70 %). The QUOALA soap bag is certified at the “Made with organic” level.
  • All toxic chemicals, heavy metals and endocrine-disrupting substances are banned – especially important for textiles in direct contact with the skin.
  • Organic farming protects soils, water resources and farmers: no GMO seed, no synthetic pesticides, less water use.
  • Social responsibility is binding: GOTS requires the ILO core labour standards – no child labour, living wages, safe working conditions.
  • GOTS vs. other labels: the only standard that checks ecology AND social criteria together, bindingly, across the entire chain – not just the finished product.

1. The label levels: what is really inside?

GOTS strictly distinguishes between two certification levels to prevent greenwashing. Our goal is maximum transparency:

  • “Organic”: Requires a share of at least 95 % certified organic fibres.
  • “Made with organic”: Requires at least 70 % certified organic fibres. The QUOALA soap bag is certified at this level (70 % organic linen).

What matters for you: GOTS checks the entire chain of custody. This means we can prove without gaps that the organic linen was never mixed with conventional, sprayed fibres on its way from the field to the weaving mill. Every stage of production – spinning, weaving, dyeing, making up, packaging – must be checked by an accredited, independent GOTS certifier.

How certification works

GOTS is not awarded by a single authority – but by accredited, independent certification bodies around the world, which are themselves regularly monitored by the GOTS umbrella organisation. In practice, it works like this:

  1. Annual audits: Every company in the chain – cotton spinner, weaving mill, dye house, garment maker – must be inspected on site every year. Not just paperwork audits: the inspectors take fabric samples for chemical laboratory tests.
  2. Unannounced inspections: In addition to the mandatory audits, unannounced spot checks are possible at any time.
  3. Public database: All GOTS-certified companies and their products can be viewed in the official GOTS database – you can verify the certificate number of a QUOALA product there at any time.

Summary: GOTS distinguishes two levels: “Organic” (≥95 % organic fibres) and “Made with organic” (≥70 %). What counts is the chain of custody – seamless proof that no conventional fibres were mixed in. Annual audits and a public database prevent greenwashing. The QUOALA soap bag is certified at the “Made with organic” level.

2. Chemical safety: protection for skin and environment

You use a soap bag wet on your skin. It rubs directly over your pores. That is why the GOTS rules for “wet processing” (dyeing, bleaching, finishing) are so important – and so much stricter than in conventional textile production.

Strict input lists: what exactly is banned

All dyes and auxiliaries used must be approved in advance on the GOTS list. Banned substances include [1]:

  • Toxic heavy metals (chromium VI, nickel, lead, mercury) – common in conventional reactive dyes
  • Azo dyes that can release aromatic amines – known to sensitise the skin
  • Formaldehyde resins as a textile finish – despite their wide use in conventional shirt production
  • Phthalates and APEO (alkylphenol ethoxylates) – endocrine-active substances, also known as “hormone disruptors”
  • Chlorine bleach – conventional bleaching with chlorine is banned by GOTS; only hydrogen peroxide-based methods are allowed

Avoiding skin irritation

By avoiding these residues in the fibres, fewer residues remain in the fibres. Especially with wet, mechanical contact with the skin – as when washing with a soap bag – this difference from conventional textile production is clearly noticeable.

Mandatory wastewater treatment

Factories must operate modern treatment plants. The COD value (chemical oxygen demand) of the wastewater is closely monitored so that no toxic “soup” pollutes local rivers. This matters: conventional textile production is one of the biggest water polluters in the world [1].

Summary: For textiles in direct contact with the skin, chemical safety is crucial. GOTS specifically bans toxic heavy metals, azo dyes, formaldehyde resins, phthalates, APEO and chlorine bleach – and even regulates the wastewater quality of the producing factories.

3. Organic cultivation (farming methods)

GOTS starts long before the factory. The fibres come from certified organic agriculture – with far-reaching consequences for the environment, the climate and the people in the growing region.

  • No GM maize, no GM cotton: The use of genetically modified (GMO) seed is banned. This protects variety and prevents contamination of neighbouring organic fields.
  • Healthy soils: Crop rotation and natural fertilisation keep the soil fertile, and it can store more CO2 than conventionally farmed fields. Cotton is one of the most nutrient-hungry crops – organic farming prevents soil depletion.
  • No synthetic pesticides: This not only protects nature but also prevents farmers from being exposed to dangerous nerve toxins at harvest. Conventional cotton growing accounts for around 10 % of global pesticide use – on only 2.5 % of the cultivated land.
  • Reduced water use: Organically grown cotton needs on average considerably less irrigation water than conventional cotton – because healthy soils store water better. In regions where water is scarce, this is a decisive advantage.

Summary: Organic farming protects both the environment and the people in the growing region. No GMO seed, no synthetic pesticides, healthier soils, reduced water use – the result is safer fibres and production that respects planetary boundaries.

4. Social responsibility: more than just a job

A product is only good if the people behind it are valued too. GOTS is based on the strict conventions of the International Labour Organization (ILO). For textile workers, this means concrete, measurable minimum standards:

  • No child labour: Strictly banned and closely monitored. GOTS auditors check payrolls, proof of age and school attendance records of local children.
  • Living wages instead of minimum wage: GOTS requires wages that people can live on – an important difference from the statutory minimum wage, which in many producing countries is not enough to live on. Living wages are based on the actual local cost of living.
  • Regulated working hours: No excessive, forced overtime. Voluntary overtime is allowed but must be paid appropriately.
  • Safety at work: Regular H&S (health & safety) audits ensure safe working conditions – from protective equipment to air quality in weaving mills and dye houses.
  • Freedom of association: Workers have the right to organise in trade unions and bargain collectively – this is also part of the ILO core labour standards [2].

Summary: GOTS makes social minimum standards mandatory: child labour banned, living wages instead of minimum wage, regulated working hours, H&S audits and freedom of association. Buying a GOTS product supports fair conditions at every stage of the supply chain.

5. Certification v7.0: always up to date

The GOTS standard is continually being tightened. The current version 7.0 is the most demanding yet – with three key changes compared with the previous version:

  • Stronger due diligence (human rights due diligence): Companies must now actively identify and document human rights risks throughout their entire supply chain – not just at the directly certified level. This reflects the spirit of the EU supply chain due diligence rules.
  • Stricter chemical requirements: More substances have been added to the banned list, in particular newer PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), which are still widely used in other contexts.
  • Extended climate requirements: Certified companies are increasingly required to measure and reduce their CO2 footprint. GOTS is evolving from a product standard into a sustainability framework.

When you buy a GOTS product from QUOALA, you are investing in the future of the textile industry – fair, clean and safe.

Summary: GOTS v7.0 tightens three areas: stronger human rights due diligence, extended chemical bans (incl. PFAS) and new climate requirements. The standard keeps evolving – and is not becoming any less strict.

6. GOTS compared: what other labels don't do

The market for textile labels is confusing. Here are the most important differences at a glance – so you know why GOTS is the only acceptable choice for us.

Oeko-Tex Standard 100

Oeko-Tex 100 tests the finished product for harmful substances. That is valuable – but it says nothing about cultivation, nothing about working conditions in the factory, and nothing about whether the raw fibres were grown organically. A conventionally produced polyester shirt can carry Oeko-Tex 100. It could not carry GOTS – because the requirements apply from the very start of the supply chain.

EU Ecolabel (Blue Angel / European Ecolabel)

The EU Ecolabel sets environmental requirements for the manufacturing process, but does not cover organic farming standards and has less strict chemical limits than GOTS. Social standards are not part of the certification system. It is a useful basic label – but no substitute for GOTS.

Fairtrade (textiles)

Fairtrade focuses on fair trading conditions and price guarantees for farmers – especially in the Global South. That is important and valuable. However, Fairtrade does not cover the chemical safety of wet processing and wastewater quality in the same detail as GOTS. The approaches complement each other – GOTS goes further in ecological depth.

Why only GOTS covers the entire chain

Criterion GOTS Oeko-Tex 100 Fairtrade
Organic cultivation ✅ ❌ partly
Chemical safety (wet processing) ✅ (very strict) ✅ (finished product) ❌
Social standards (ILO) ✅ ❌ ✅ (main focus)
Chain of custody (entire chain) ✅ ❌ partly
Publicly verifiable ✅ ✅ ✅

An important observation in practice: many manufacturers combine several labels – for example Oeko-Tex 100 for chemical safety and Fairtrade for social aspects. That is better than nothing. But it is hard work for consumers to read and understand these combinations. GOTS offers the advantage of an integrated, holistic framework: one certification that answers all the key questions at once – transparent, verified every year and publicly checkable. Anyone who looks at the GOTS database once immediately understands which business is certified at which stage of the chain. You will look for this level of traceability in vain with other labels.

Summary: Oeko-Tex 100 tests the finished product, not cultivation. Fairtrade focuses on fair trade, not chemical safety. Only GOTS combines organic cultivation, strict chemical requirements, wastewater standards, chain of custody and ILO social standards in a single, annually audited system – public and verifiable.

GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard logo

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

The only standard that covers every stage of the supply chain – from cultivation to packaging – at the same time:

  • ✅ Organic fibre cultivation – at least 70 % certified organic fibres (“Made with organic” level)
  • ✅ Chemical bans in wet processing (dyeing, bleaching, finishing)
  • ✅ Wastewater quality – regulated COD value for all production sites
  • ✅ Social standards in line with the ILO core labour standards (no child labour, living wages)
  • ✅ Chain of custody – seamless proof throughout the entire supply chain
  • ✅ Packaging & labelling – GOTS-compliant standards right through to the end product

7. The soap bag: material, exfoliation & sustainability

QUOALA organic linen soap bag close-up – open linen weave
The open organic linen weave: natural exfoliation with a scrubbing surface made of plant fibre.

Organic linen (Linum usitatissimum) is one of the oldest cultivated plants in the world – and one of the fibres best suited to textiles in direct contact with the skin. No other plant material combines so many properties that are ideal for a shower product.

The soap bag as an exfoliating tool

The open linen weave creates a gentle but effective mechanical exfoliation when rubbed wet. The linen threads form a slightly textured surface that works actively on contact with the skin:

  • Loosens dead skin cells. The top layer of the horny layer is gently removed without irritating the skin – natural skin renewal every day.
  • Promotes local skin blood flow. The gentle massage briefly increases local skin blood flow – the skin looks fresher and more revitalised.
  • Linen instead of a plastic mesh. Synthetic nylon meshes and polyester wash bags release hundreds of microfibres with every use – directly onto the skin, directly into the wastewater. Organic linen does not release any synthetic fibres. The exfoliating effect is entirely natural.

Soap bar instead of shower gel: ecology you can feel

The soap bag is not just a shower accessory – it is what makes switching from shower gel in plastic bottles to a solid soap comfortable and efficient in the first place. This switch matters more ecologically than it might seem at first glance:

  • No more plastic bottle. A plastic bottle of shower gel is used up after 3–4 weeks. A solid soap in the soap bag needs no plastic bottle at all – the packaging is paper or cardboard, or there is none.
  • Shower gel is 80–90 % water. You are essentially transporting, ordering and paying for water filled into plastic. A concentrated solid soap does not contain this unnecessary water – more cleansing power per gram, less volume, less transport CO₂.
  • No soap goes to waste. Small pieces of soap that are too small to hold end up in the bag and are used up completely. Real zero-waste showering – down to the last crumb.
  • Lower CO₂ footprint. Less weight, smaller volume, no plastic production: making and transporting solid soap creates considerably fewer emissions than equivalent amounts of shower gel in plastic bottles.

Organic linen: the ideal fibre for the shower

  • Quick-drying and naturally antimicrobial. Linen has a hollow fibre structure that quickly wicks moisture outwards. The bag dries considerably faster than cotton products – a decisive advantage in a humid shower room. Slow-drying textiles encourage germs; organic linen minimises this risk by nature.
  • Gets softer with washing – not rougher. Linen fibres become more supple with every wash. What feels slightly textured at first develops into a soft, pleasant feel on the skin.
  • 100 % vegan and durable. Organic linen is a pure plant fibre – no animal components. Linen fibres are naturally stronger than cotton fibres. With the right care, the bag will outlast synthetic alternatives by years.

Care

Wash the bag in the washing machine at up to 30 °C. Then hang it up by the drawstring loop to dry. The fibres get softer with every wash. With daily use, we recommend washing it once a week.

Summary: The organic linen bag is an exfoliating tool made of plant fibre that gently loosens skin cells and stimulates blood flow. Combined with a solid soap, it replaces the plastic bottle completely: no plastic waste, no unnecessary transported water, no leftover soap in the bin. Organic linen dries quickly, gets softer with every wash and is 100 % vegan.

8. Frequently asked questions

What does GOTS certification actually mean for a soap bag?

A GOTS-certified soap bag is made of at least 70 per cent organically grown natural fibres (“Made with organic” level) and has been dyed or finished without banned chemicals. The certification checks every stage of the supply chain without gaps – from cultivation through spinning and weaving to packaging. For a product that touches your skin wet every day, this is the most relevant certification there is.

What is the difference between GOTS and other organic labels?

GOTS is the only standard that checks ecological and social requirements together, bindingly, across the entire production chain. Labels such as Oeko-Tex Standard 100 mainly test the finished product for harmful substances, but not cultivation or working conditions in the factory. Fairtrade focuses on fair trade and farmers' rights – but not on the chemical safety of wet processing.

Chemical requirements under GOTS

GOTS prohibits these substances in the fibres: azo dyes, endocrine-active substances, formaldehyde resins and toxic heavy metals are banned across all processing stages.

What does GOTS have to do with child labour?

GOTS obliges all certified businesses to comply with the ILO core labour standards. Child labour is strictly banned and monitored through independent audits – inspectors ask for proof of age and check payrolls. So you can be sure that social minimum standards are met along the entire supply chain.

How do I recognise a genuine GOTS label?

The certificate contains a unique certificate number that you can verify on the official GOTS website at global-standard.org. Products without a verifiable number are not certified. QUOALA products are offered with the full certificate number.

How often is GOTS certification renewed?

Every certified company in the production chain must be audited again every year. In addition, unannounced spot checks are possible at any time. This means certification is not a one-off check but a continuous process. Companies that no longer meet the requirements lose their certification immediately.

Can GOTS guarantee completely water-free production?

No – and that would not be an honest statement. Processing cotton needs water. What GOTS guarantees: wastewater quality is regulated, factories must operate treatment plants, and organic farming considerably reduces the need for irrigation compared with conventional farming. GOTS is not a free pass – it is the strongest tool available for minimising the burden on water.

Why did QUOALA choose GOTS and not another label?

Because GOTS is the only system that answers all the questions that matter to us at the same time: are the raw fibres grown cleanly? Were no toxic chemicals used? Were the workers treated fairly? Can I trace the entire supply chain? No other label does all this together in an audited, publicly verifiable framework. And precisely because a soap bag touches your skin wet every day – over pores that are open and receptive – for us this is not an optional certification but a non-negotiable requirement for every product we offer.

QUOALA GOTS soap bag – organic linen, GOTS-certified

Safe for you and the environment

Experience quality you can feel on your skin. Discover our strictly certified natural-fibre tool for your daily shower.

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Sources and further reading

Scientific sources

  1. Global Organic Textile Standard (2023), GOTS Version 7.0, Global Standard gGmbH. Criteria for organic fibres, chemicals and social standards along the whole supply chain. Our assessment S16 · Source
  2. International Labour Organization: Conventions, Protocols and Recommendations – Fundamental instruments. The ILO core labour standards, including the ban on child labour and freedom of association. Our assessment Z7 · Source